PICKER12_148_KW.Jpg in San Francisco 12/2/04 (from right to left), professional clothing seller David Mascola to the store manager and buyer of the Buffalo Exchange, Kate ilesser (CQ on Thursday afternoon evening, new and old fashion.San Francisco Chronicle and photographer/lesspicker12_148 _ kw.Jpg in San Francisco 12/2/04 (from right to left), professional clothing seller David Mascola to the store manager and buyer of the Buffalo Exchange, Kate ilesser (CQ on Thursday afternoon evening, new and old fashion.San Francisco Chronicle and photographer/lessDavid Mascola strode into the Buffalo Exchange on Haite Street.As he went to the open seat in the purchase area, he waved his hand and put his small leather bag next to the chair as a brown --A woman with blunt bangs next to her hair goes through her huge weathered plaid woven bag."David!"Marvel at the young woman in the hole behind the shopping counter, who has just been looking for the part of a disgruntled shopping girl."David!"Echoing the young man who also pierced and tattooed, he raised a shirt and looked at it for a long time before pushing it back to the counter.The brown-The woman with her hair paused and evaluated the clothes she was assembling, hoping to sell them for more than she paid."I know we met before.Was it here?Berkeley?"No," said Mascola, whose tone was interrupted."We met as we were.Years ago."After a while, he found the store manager, Kate ilesser."Kate!Girl!"Now Mascola is smiling and his baritone voice is full of shops."David!"Said the evil man with a smile."What did you bring us today?"The opportunity to convert old clothes into cash creates a new job: a professional seller.Professional sellers known as "pickups" can be the blessing or curse of the store, depending on how they work and how the store depends on the item.The push and pull between the buyer and the seller at the buyer's counter may cause controversy;In the best case, this is a symbiotic relationship based on a single love for fashion.In the worst case, this is a parasitic situation in which the pickers will loot inexperienced buyers or trade stolen goods from the shop eches honeycombBuyers can also break the deal by rejecting good clothing to irritate sellers, or by accepting Mascola's attitude of "making you feel like you'll see your social worker."I know what I'm talking about: In 2001, I worked for six months as a Buffalo Exchange clothing buyer.Mascola, a 40-year-old fashion star who was also a former employee of Buffalo Exchange, is a rare creature, and Sabrina Barger, 15, says he is also a buyer, because of his "true love of fashion and incredible eyes"The old man who resold-For the past six years, he has served as regional manager of the Buffalo Exchange in the Gulf region.In 1996, Mascola sold his first item at Wasteland, an old-fashioned clothing store on Haight Street."It was a terrible experience," Mascola said ."."I knew nothing at the time.I don't know what they're looking for or how to look for items."Through a friend, he heard that the place to go, as always, is the nickname of great goodwill on fanness and Market streets, and new donated clothes are introduced every morning."I started to understand, look at the current situation, and start reading fashion magazines to find inspiration."Now I treat it as an art form," he said without a smile.While Mascola has sold clothing at least once a week for 6 years, this has never been a completetime job."The profit margin is too thin;It's too hard, "he said."It's more of a hobby."He did allow the sale of clothes to increase his retail work income at Castro.Barger said there were all sorts of pickers.-Or, as she says, "more polite" professional sellers."There are travelers who have a real love for clothing and spend most of their time going to the rag house to buy vintage clothing all over the West.They sell less often, perhaps as they do when they pass through the Bay Area every month."It's a great experience when sellers do well," Evilsizer said ."."I can even call people like my men's shirt man who will come in with any size or style we wear.Most people, however, only bring millions of the same things.I mean, when I said, 'Don't bring the '80' pump anymore, 'you brought another bag of '80' pumps, "The evil pantomime actor pointed in frustration," it's just disrespectful.You're not listening."You can judge who is not interested in clothing by what they bring.Some people don't look around the store or keep up with the trend in magazines, but keep asking, "What should I bring ?"?"They are looking for formulas that don't exist," Barger said with a smile .".Berkeley's "people's park origins" began with the first purchase of the Buffalo Exchange."It sells similar clothing stores in East Bay and opens near People's Park," she added ."."There is a fairly noble project, a free box where people can put on clothes for people in the park.This is a good idea, but this, "Barger stops and chooses her words carefully," the hierarchy of the picker appears, who can be freeSell box clothes."There are some problems caused by the naming law;The word "Picker" may have a negative meaning for some people."My understanding of 'picca' is that it comes from picking bins in thrift stores and flea markets," Mascola said ."."I personally think the word is derogatory.It sounds like picking in a cotton field.Mascola said there was no friendship between professional sellers."God, no.These people are not your friends.The competition is very fierce."Mascola describes the environment of As Is As hostile, where most day-to-day pickers get the goods they will take away in town."People go crazy for the best."I had a fight with a girl," Mascola said with a smile."A real girl fights.I don't beat women, you know.I'm not the one who hates women.-I mean, I imitate some of them, some of my idols.-But this woman is not Debbie Harry.She dropped a dress and put it on the ground so I bent down to get it and she grabbed my hair!Grab me from the back of my head!"Mascola declined to disclose the current source he found and was even put on the record for fear of leaking the news."It's just something you don't want to talk about." And no full-Time clothing seller agrees to talk about his or her livelihood on the record.Bobby McCole, former managerCrossroads, a clothing chain that has also worked as a professional seller, said, "you have established relationships with buyers and other sellers when you sell, but this is not friendship.Can be very kind.I definitely have a lot of respect for the people in the bin, looking for things every day, but it's always business.Mike Cole started his retail career on the west coast of Mars, an old-fashioned-A clothing store in Berkeley did not buy it at the counter until recently."At some point, I realized that people selling every day are making a lot more money than I do," McCole said with a smile ."."They have little creativity or talent.I think I can do this if I'm really interested in fashion and I can do it very well."McCole's expertise and interest is vintage clothing, and he found it" pointless "to look for them in the city ".Was in the acquisitionThe key to selling stores, he said, is to build good relationships with individual buyers.It sounds bad, but it's really a game.You start to understand what people like and start buying what you know (specific buyers) and they go crazy or leave when you meet a bad buyer."Just like this shirt," McCole continued, tugging his white jersey with a big dog's hand --Embroidered chest."I don't think every buyer will get this, but I would be happy to buy this for my store.Barger insists the Buffalo Exchange will be good without a professional seller.Julie Brown-Lome, regional manager at Crossroads, agreed and noted that as her store "does not focus on retro, we have less incentive for dealers to sell to us.Few people will also bring a Gucci shirt they bought from Goodwill.90% filler McCole and Mascola said that the quality of the store's inventory would decline without a professional seller.However, Barger insists, "the 90% we get from the selector will be the filler.When we buy some style, you only know that they will bring 18 more in the next bag."In the past, if you had a budget, you looked like you had a budget," she added ."."Fashion is one-off now.With low-Fashion retailers like H & M, Forever 21, shopping malls like this, people buy clothes and wear them once and then sell them to us for more.We are taking advantage of the huge generation shift in this industry.From magazines to big stores and US, fashion is faster than ever."When I was working on Mars, we had a homeless woman who had a drug problem, Gwen, who came in every day to sell," McCole said ."."Every day.Rain or shine, she will find clothes to bring in, and she will come in even if the staff will be bad for her.I respect her more than a child who sells clothes bought by her parents.Mike Cole is only selling from his "vault" occasionally now, but Mascola has no plans to stop selling."I like clothing and fashion."I really like it," he said ." He put his scarf around his neck and gloves on."I'm not rich.I have no good education.But I have always had a natural instinct in style."Like the stores they sell, the sellers favor the base market.Learn from professionals: wasteland is usually the first stop for vintage sellers, as its commodity price is higher than the Crossroads or the Buffalo Exchange.Bring the current designer items to the intersection, pay attention to the location of the store: Castro's intersection will always buy more highEnd the men's wear, and the location of Fillmore may be more suitable for that Fendi bag.Buying vintage and modern-style goods on the Buffalo Exchange may be more willing to take the risk of buying trendy goods, but the price is often lower than that of more upscale stores.Other sales tips: go to the store earlier in the day when the line is short and the buyer is not so anxious, wash it before you sell the clothes (because if the clothes are dirty, even a great dress won't be on the shelf), don't fight the store staff.Happy buyers and happy sellers mean more sales on both sides.Buffalo Exchange: 1555 Haite StreetSan Francisco, (415) 431-7733;1800 Polk St.San Francisco, (415) 346-5726;2585 Telegraph Avenue, Berkeley.(510) 644-9202.Intersection: 1901 Fillmore StreetSan Francisco, (415) 775-8885;1519 Haight St.San Francisco, (415) 355-0555;555 Irving St.San Francisco, (415) 681-0100;2123 Market St.San Francisco, (415) 552-8740;2338 Shatak Avenue, Berkeley, (510) 843-7600;5636 University AvenueAuckland, (510) 420-1952.Pioneer: 1660 Haite StreetSan Francisco.(415) 863-3150.